Seed Starting Basics

It’s that time of year again. I can hear the birds chirping when I wake up in the morning. Spring is right around the corner, which means it’s almost time to start the vegetable and herb seedlings in the greenhouse. Our local hardware store carries organic seeds. Every time we drive by there, I scope out the front window alcove in eager anticipation, looking for the seed display. Finally they arrived, and I purchased a variety of organic seeds. There were a few varieties they didn’t have, so my husband is heading to the hardware store near his office after work today to pick up what we’re missing.

Seed starting is an economical way to grow vegetables. You don’t need to have a greenhouse to start your plants indoors. Just place your plant containers on a table near a sunny window or use a grow light.

We have a small greenhouse, which we purchased several years ago. Fortunately for us, we procrastinated about putting it together, so it was still in its original box when we moved here. Once assembled, it appeared to be a bit on the flimsy side, and we were concerned it would not withstand the high winds we often get here.

Rather than investing in something sturdier and more expensive, we decided to try reinforcing every seam on the greenhouse with heavy duty, all weather duct tape. We applied it on both the inside and outside seams. It took us three days to complete, but it was definitely worth the time and trouble. We also placed flat concrete blocks on the floor overlapping the lip of the base around the perimeter of the greenhouse.

Inside the greenhouse, we covered the floor with outdoor carpeting. We then placed two, long folding tables against the walls inside the
greenhouse and covered them with plastic sheeting.

We use inexpensive plastic containers to start our seeds, rather than disposable ones we would have to replace yearly. We drill holes in the bottom of each container for drainage and place the lids underneath each container to catch any drips from watering. We also have several flower planter boxes we use.

When starting seeds, good soil is essential for healthy plants. We mix rich, organic potting soil with composted soil from the garden (1:1).Doing this minimizes transplant shock once we move the plants into the garden.

Before we begin planting the seeds, we draw diagrams of each tabletop and label each container on the diagram with what will be planted in it. Using the diagram, we also label the containers and began the process of planting the seeds,. Before planting each seed, we carefully moistened the soil a bit. Using a sharp instrument, we then make a hole for each seed, adhering to the depth recommendation on the seed packets.

Regarding watering, it’s important to keep the containers moist but not too wet. I use the mist setting on the hose nozzle to water each container, making sure the soil is not too damp. Soil that remains too damp will rot the seeds, but if the soil is too dry, the seeds will not germinate. It’s a delicate balance, and I usually check the containers a couple of times a day and mist as necessary.

It’s also important to make sure the greenhouse is warm enough at night. We have some chilly evenings here, so once the sun goes down. we close the roof vents and turn on a small space heater to keep the plants warm. As soon as the sun begins heating up the greenhouse in the morning, we open the roof vents and turn off the heater.

With careful nurturing, it won’t be long before the plants are bursting with life and ready to transplant into the raised garden beds.

We also direct sow some of the seeds, such as beet, carrot, lettuce, spinach, kale, green bean and Swiss chard in raised beds, at the appropriate time listed on the seed packets for our zone.

FYI: Seed packets have a shelf life. If you’re a seed saver, be sure to indicate the date they were saved. The chart below is a helpful tool for determining how long to keep seeds.

VegetableCyclePollinationPollinatorIsolation
Distance
Seed LongevityNotes
BeanASelf100′2-3 yrsLose vigor rapidly.
Beet/ChardBCrossWind1/2 mi3-5 yrsBeets cross with chard.
Broccoli/Kale/
Cauliflower
BCrossInsects1/2 mi3-5 yrsHot-water treated seeds last only 1 yr. Crossing among Brassica species is complex, consult a good reference book.
CarrotBCrossInsects1500′2-3 yrsCrosses with wild species.
CeleryBCrossInsects1500′2-3 yrs 
CornACrossWind1/2 mi2-3 yrsAdequate population essential.
CucumberACrossInsects1500′5-10 yrsHarvest at yellow blimp stage.
EggplantASelf150′2-3 yrs 
LeekBCrossInsects1500′2 yrs 
OnionBCrossInsects1500′1 yr 
LettuceASelf50′2-3 yrsStart indoors, need long season for seed.
MelonACrossInsects1500′5-10 yrsMuskmelons will not cross with watermelons.
MustardACrossInsects1/2 mi3-5 yrsCrosses with wild species.
PeaASelf50′2-3 yrsDo not save seed from diseased plants.
PepperAbothInsects500′2-3 yrsSome varieties cross more readily than others.
RadishACrossInsects1500′3-5 yrs 
SpinachACrossWind1/2 mi2-3 yrs 
Squash/PumpkinACrossInsects1500′2-5 yrsmoschata 2-3 yrs, pepo & maxima 3-5 yrs. These three species generally do not cross.
TomatoASelf25′-100′5-10 yrsPotato-leaf types need the greater isolation distance.

Maintaining Healthy Garden Plants

Healthy garden plants are dependent on healthy soil. If you or someone you know raises organic chickens, chicken litter added to garden beds over the winter is the best way to have healthy plants in the spring and summer.

Note: Never put fresh chicken litter directly on plants, as it will burn them. Adding it to compost and allowing it to age will help keep your plants healthy when you use it as fertilizer during the growing season.



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